What Interfacing Should I Use With Vinyl, Cork or Faux Leather?

If you're replacing a cotton exterior with vinyl, faux leather or cork, you might wonder whether you can leave out some of the interfacing or stabiliser listed in the pattern.

My answer is almost always: Use the stabiliser recommended in the pattern. 😊

Vinyl and cork may already feel much thicker and more substantial than cotton, but that doesn't necessarily mean they'll give the finished bag the same structure or help it hold its shape over time.

Does vinyl or faux leather need woven fusible interfacing?

Usually, no.

When I use cotton or another thinner woven fabric, I generally add woven fusible interfacing such as G700 or SF101 to give the fabric itself more body and stability.

Most bag-making vinyls and faux leathers already have enough body on their own, so I don't normally add woven fusible interfacing to them.

The main exception is a stretchy vinyl or faux leather. Some vinyls have a surprising amount of stretch, even when they aren't intended for clothing. In that case, adding woven fusible interfacing can help stabilise the material and prevent it from stretching out of shape while you're constructing and using the bag.

But you probably still need the foam or firm stabiliser

This is the important distinction! Leaving the woven fusible interfacing off your vinyl doesn't mean I recommend leaving out the foam or firm stabiliser specified in the pattern.

If a pattern calls for foam stabiliser, I will generally still use foam when making the exterior in vinyl, faux leather or cork. Likewise, if I've designed the bag around a heavy firm stabiliser, that's normally what I'll use for my vinyl or cork version too.

Whenever these materials are included in the fabric recommendations for one of my patterns, I almost always make at least one sample in cork, vinyl or faux leather using the same stabilisers specified in the pattern. That's the construction and finished result I base my recommendation on.

What if my vinyl is very thick or rigid?

This is where there's a little more room for adjustment.

Some materials, particularly heavy marine vinyls or very rigid faux leathers - already provide a considerable amount of structure. Combining one of those with the full stabiliser recommended in the pattern can sometimes make the finished bag extremely firm and more difficult to sew and turn.

In that situation, you may be able to reduce the stabiliser. For example, you might choose a lighter firm stabiliser such as Decovil Light instead of a Decovil Heavy one, or use fusible fleece instead of foam.

However, I would consider these modifications rather than direct substitutions.

They will change the way the finished bag looks, feels and behaves, and you may not get quite the same result as the original design. Something that feels wonderfully firm while you're making it can also soften with use, so removing too much structure may eventually leave you with a floppier bag than you intended.

If you're unsure, my recommendation is generally to stick with the stabiliser specified in the pattern.

What about cork fabric?

I generally treat cork much like vinyl when it comes to interfacing and stabiliser: I don't normally add woven fusible interfacing to it, but I still use the foam or firm stabiliser specified in the pattern.

Cork can vary quite a bit, though. Some cork fabrics are wonderfully soft and supple while others are considerably firmer, so it's worth taking the particular material you're using into account.

Very firm cork can also be less forgiving when it's crumpled or heavily manipulated during turning. If you're making an entire bag from cork, the construction method can therefore sometimes be worth considering as well.

Can I use vinyl instead of cotton in any Pink Pony Design pattern?

If vinyl, faux leather or cork is included among the recommended exterior fabrics for the pattern, you can follow the recommendations above.

There are occasional designs where the fabric itself is part of the construction or finished look, though, and in those cases it can't simply be substituted.

A good example is the Florence Frayed Bag. That design relies on the raw edges of the fabric being deliberately frayed, so vinyl wouldn't be a suitable replacement.

Always have a quick look at the fabric recommendations for the individual pattern before choosing your material.

Attaching stabiliser to vinyl or faux leather

Adding stabiliser to vinyl can require a slightly different approach than fusing interfacing to cotton, particularly because different vinyls can respond differently to heat.

I've made a video showing how I work with vinyl and attach the foam or other stabiliser without damaging the exterior material:

Watch: Interfacing Vinyl with Foam or Fusibles →

Still unsure?

If you're making one of my patterns and aren't sure whether your particular vinyl, cork or faux leather is too heavy for the recommended stabiliser, please feel free to ask!

Let me know which pattern you're making, what exterior material you're using and which stabiliser you're considering, and I'll be happy to help you decide. 😊