Should I Add Interfacing or Stabiliser to the Exterior or the Lining?

If you'd like your finished bag to have a little more structure, you might be tempted to add extra interfacing or stabiliser to the lining.

In my experience, I wouldn't recommend it.

I normally interface all cotton fabrics in my bags - including a cotton lining - with a woven fusible interfacing such as Vilene G700, Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex or similar. This gives the fabric itself some extra body, strenght and stability.

Beyond that, though, I generally don't add any additional interfacing or stabiliser to the lining.

Keep the structure with the exterior

The foam or firm stabiliser that gives the bag its main structure is normally attached to the exterior pieces, according to the pattern instructions.

I find this gives a much nicer result because the exterior fabric and stabiliser behave together as the structured shell of the bag, while the lining can sit neatly inside it.

Adding foam, firm stabiliser or additional layers of interfacing to the lining doesn't necessarily make the bag feel better supported. In my experience, it tends to create unnecessary bulk inside the bag and can make the finished result feel a little awkward.

What if I want my bag to be firmer?

If you'd like a firmer or more structured finished bag, I'd make that adjustment to the exterior, rather than adding more layers to the lining.

Depending on the pattern and the result you're looking for, that might mean using a slightly firmer main stabiliser or adding an additional layer of woven fusible interfacing to the exterior fabric.

Just remember that firmer isn't always better! The stabiliser specified in the pattern has been chosen with the size, shape and construction of that particular bag in mind, and adding too much structure can make some bags more difficult to sew, turn and use.

A simple rule to remember

For most of my patterns, I think of it like this:

Exterior = The main structural stabiliser.
Foam or firm stabiliser is generally added to the exterior pieces as instructed in the pattern.

Lining = No extra stabiliser.
Once I've interfaced a cotton lining with a woven fusible, I normally leave it at that.

Of course, individual patterns can have specific construction requirements, so always follow the recommendations in the pattern you're making first.

Still not sure?

If you're making one of my patterns and would like to change the amount of structure in your bag, you're always welcome to ask. Let me know which pattern you're making, which fabrics you're using and whether you'd like the finished bag softer or firmer, and I'll be happy to suggest what I'd change. 😊