My Sewing Machine Is Skipping Stitches
Skipped stitches are incredibly frustrating, especially when you're sewing through thicker bag-making materials like vinyl, foam stabiliser or several layers of fabric.
The good news is that they're usually caused by something fairly simple - and thread tension isn't the culprit. A skipped stitch happens when the top and bobbin threads fail to catch properly and form a complete stitch. So there are a few things I'd check before throwing the machine out the window. 😉
Start with a fresh needle
A damaged, bent, dull or unsuitable needle is one of the most common causes of skipped stitches.
For bag making, I generally recommend using a new topstitch needle, especially when sewing through thick layers. The big eye on the topstitching needle allows your thread to run freely even if of a heavier weight, and can be picked up easily by the bobbin thread.
For heavier areas, a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle is often a good place to start.
Even if the needle doesn't look damaged, replacing it is still worth trying. A slightly bent or worn needle can cause problems long before it looks obviously bad.
Check the needle for glue or adhesive residue
This is an easy one to miss! If you've been sewing through double-sided tape, fusible web, adhesive stabiliser or areas with interfacing glue, sticky residue can build up on the needle.
This can interfere with the stitch formation and cause skipped stitches or uneven stitching.
If your needle feels sticky or looks dirty, turn off your machine and wipe it carefully with a little rubbing alcohol/isopropyl alcohol on a soft cloth or cotton pad. Let it dry completely before sewing again. For stubborn buildup, remove the needle first and clean it more thoroughly.
When sewing through such areas, a Schmetz Black Super Universal Needle can be sanity saving, it has a nonstick surface, making glue residue much less likely to stick to the needle risking skipped stitches as a result.
Watch on YouTube: → How to Clean Gunk Off Your Sewing Machine Needle
Try increasing the presser foot pressure
If your machine allows you to adjust the presser foot pressure, increasing it can sometimes help when sewing thick or difficult materials. Increasing the presser foot pressure can help compact the layers and make it easier for the top and bobbin threads to form the stitch correctly.
Increase it a little at a time, to ensure your fabric still feeds evenly. Many machines have an issue with the presser foot pressure becoming too low when using a walking foot especially, resulting in skipped stitches. If you're uncertain how to increase the presser foot pressure, check your machines manual.
On my Juki 2200 QVP mini you increase presser foot pressure here:
On a Husqvarna more basic machine, like the Opal 690q you press the SET menu (A) to get to your settings and there at the top you can adjust the "P-foot pressure" at the very top. Increase the number for higher pressure.
Make sure your presser foot is sitting flat
If one side of the presser foot is sitting on thick interfacing, while the other side is unsupported, the foot can tilt. That uneven pressure can cause skipped stitches.
If you're working with vinyl, you can try switching from a bulky walking foot to a Teflon or roller foot depending on what works best with your machine. If you’re already working with a teflon foot, try a slimmer one such as a piping or a zipper foot (like the universal one in the photo, they’re available for most machines).
This will allow the entire foot to lay flat on the fabric while you sew, keeping the presser foot pressure even - even if you're working next to bulky interfacing (like in the photo below) or straps for example.
If your machine lets you move the needle position, moving it towards one side so that more of the presser foot remains fully supported while sewing can help too.
Skipping stitches over a thick seam?
When your presser foot climbs onto a bulky seam, it can tip backwards and lose even pressure. This can also happen when sewing straps and similar.
Use a hump jumper/seam jumper behind the presser foot to keep it level as it crosses the thick area.
Place the little plastic piece under the back of your presser foot to bring the back of the pressure foot up to the same height as the seam allowance or strap, before it starts leaning. If you don't have a hump jumper, you can do like I do and fold up some scraps to the correct height and use that instead to level out the presser foot.
Does it happen when you turn a corner?
If your machine tends to skip a stitch immediately after you stop with the needle down and pivot, you need to let the machine fully finish forming the stitch before turning your work.
Allow the machine to come to a complete stop, or turn the handwheel until the needle has started to rise slightly before pivoting. This gives the bobbin thread time to catch the top thread and complete the stitch, hence preventing the skipped stitch.
The thread can be the issue!
This is going to sound strange, but sometimes the thread itself can cause skipped stitches.
If you've tried everything else and you're still getting skipped stitches, try changing your spool of thread and see if the problem disappears.
Even high-quality brands like Gütermann or Mettler can occasionally have a dud spool. I actually used to keep an old spool of black Gütermann thread to demonstrate this when I taught classes in person. Every time I used that particular thread in my machine, I'd get skipped stitches.
The culprit was tiny irregularities - little "bumps" along the thread that would catch as the thread passed through the needle. They were barely visible to the naked eye, but they were enough to interfere with the stitch formation.
So if nothing else is working, change both your top and bobbin thread for fresh, good-quality thread and test again. It's such a simple thing to rule out, and you might be surprised by the difference!
And while we're talking about thread...
When sewing bags, choosing the right thread is especially important. Our handbags have to withstand pulling, carrying, packed pockets, loaded handles and all the other stresses of everyday life, so those seams need to be strong and durable.
If you're unsure what type of thread to use - or why I recommend some threads over others - I've covered it here:
What Thread Should I Use for Bag Making? →
Did you get a single skipped stitch in a visible place?
Here's a video showing how a save a line of topstitching when I have a single skipped stitch or two.
Watch on YouTube: How to fix skipped stitches without unpicking →
Don't change your thread tension just because you're getting skipped stitches
This is an important one.
Skipped stitches are not a thread-tension problem, so changing the tension dial isn't where I'd start troubleshooting.
If your stitches are forming but the top or bobbin thread is being pulled to the wrong side of the fabric - or you're getting loops underneath - that's a different problem.
→ My Thread Tension Looks Wrong - What Should I Adjust?
Still getting skipped stitches?
If you've tried everything above and your machine is still struggling, tell me:
- What fabrics and stabilisers you're sewing through
- Which needle and presser foot you're using
- Where in the construction the skipped stitches happen
A photo of the stitching and the area you're sewing is always helpful too. ❤️