How Do I Set Double-Cap Rivets?

Double-cap rivets are one of my favourite ways to secure straps, handles and other details on a bag. They look professional, they're quick to install and, once you've set a few, they're really quite easy to use.

The part that causes the most trouble isn't usually setting the rivet - it's choosing the correct size rivet for the thickness of your layers.

Get that right, and you're already halfway there!

Choose the correct rivet length

This is probably the most important thing to get right.

Once the rivet post has been pushed through all your fabric layers, it should extend past them by only about 1 mm (1/16") - essentially just enough for you to put the cap onto the post.

You don't want a long section of post sticking out above your fabric.

If the post is too long, it has room to bend sideways when you apply pressure. This is one of the most common reasons rivets set crookedly or don't sit neatly against the fabric.

If you have several rivet lengths available, choose the shortest one that will comfortably pass through all your layers and allow the cap to be fitted.

Reinforce thin fabric if necessary

For most bag-making applications, such as riveting a strap or handle in place, there are usually already enough layers to support the rivet and I don't add anything extra.

If you're placing a rivet through thin fabric or only a single layer, however, I like to add a small scrap of firm interfacing or stabiliser behind the area.

This gives the rivet something more substantial to grip and can also provide enough thickness to prevent the post from bending when it's set.

Make the hole

I use either a leather rotary punch or a leather hole punch to make the hole for my rivets.

Choose a hole size that allows the rivet post to pass through without making the hole unnecessarily large.

Make sure you're happy with the position before punching - unlike stitching through fabric, this is one hole we're definitely not undoing afterwards. 😄

Push the rivet post through the hole from the side where you want the bottom cap to sit, then place the second cap onto the protruding post.

Before setting it, check again that the post isn't unnecessarily long.

Setting rivets by hand

You absolutely don't need a press to start using rivets.

For years I set mine using a rivet setter and anvil, and they work perfectly well.

Place the bottom cap into the curved recess of the anvil, position the setter over the top cap and strike the setter firmly with a hammer.

The important thing is to keep everything straight and centred while you're setting it. If the setter is held at an angle, the cap can become dented or the post may set crookedly.

A solid work surface makes this much easier than trying to set rivets on something that bounces or absorbs the force.

Or use a rivet press

I have since moved on to using a rivet press and...

I cannot believe I waited so long to buy one. 😂

Mine is even PINK. Obviously. 💗

A press makes setting rivets wonderfully quick and consistent, especially if you make a lot of bags. The dies hold the rivet securely in position while the press applies straight, even pressure.

It's absolutely not necessary when you're starting out, but if you find yourself using rivets regularly, I think it's a fantastic investment.

Why did my rivet set crooked?

The first thing I'd check is the post length.

A post that's too long has room to bend instead of compressing neatly inside the cap.

Your rivet should only protrude through the fabric layers by approximately 1 mm - just enough to attach the cap.

If the post length is correct, also check that the rivet, setter and fabric are sitting straight before you apply pressure.

 

Why is my rivet loose or spinning?

Again, first check the post length. A rivet with a post that's too long may appear to be set but won't clamp the layers together properly.

It may also simply need more pressure.

With an anvil, make sure you're working on a solid surface (like the floor) and giving the setter enough force. A firm hammer blow, should apply enough pressure to fully set the rivet.

A correctly sized and properly set rivet should sit firmly against the material rather than spinning freely.

Do I need to add glue?

No. 😊

I don't use glue inside my double-cap rivets. With the correct post length and enough pressure when setting, I don't find it necessary.

Practice on scraps first

If you've never set a rivet before, don't make your beautiful nearly-finished bag the first one. 😂

Layer scraps of the same fabrics, vinyl and stabilisers you're using in your project until they're approximately the same thickness as the area you'll be riveting.

Then test your:

• Rivet length
• Hole size
• Setter or press
• Amount of pressure

Once you've successfully set one through your scrap layers, you'll know exactly what to use on your bag.

The most important thing to remember

If there's one thing I'd like you to take away from this article, it's this:

Your rivet post should only be long enough to pass through your layers and allow you to put the cap on - approximately 1 mm protruding is plenty.

Longer isn't better!

Choose the right post length, reinforce very thin layers when necessary and apply enough straight, even pressure when setting it.

After you've installed a few, you'll wonder why rivets ever seemed intimidating in the first place. ❤️